Your garage door is acting up, and you’re wondering whether to repair it or replace the whole thing. Both options have their perks: a repair can be quicker and cheaper, while a replacement gives you a fresh start with modern features.
The problem is, many people misjudge when to repair and when to replace. Some spend hundreds on repeated repairs that barely extend the door’s life. Others replace a perfectly good door that they could’ve kept running for years. And it results in wasted money, frustration, and sometimes even safety risks.
In this guide, we’ll break down the main factors to help you decide whether to repair or replace your garage door. You’ll see real-world scenarios, cost breakdowns, and practical tips that save you time and money. Keep reading, and you’ll know exactly when it’s worth fixing and when it’s time to start fresh.
Most garage door repairs cost between $155 and $378, but your actual bill depends on which parts failed and whether your door’s still in production. Let’s break down the most common repairs and what drives the price differences.
Expect to pay $180-350 for spring replacement, with the price depending on whether you need one spring or both. But here’s the thing: springs work as a matched pair. Replace just one, and the old spring carries extra strain and fails faster. Because of this, most installers recommend replacing both springs at the same time, even if only one snapped (fair warning).
Check the rollers while you’re at it, since they often wear out around the same time as springs. The repair cost is similar, typically $150–$250, but it can vary depending on whether you choose nylon or steel rollers and the quality of the bearings.
Once you’ve sorted out which parts need work, the next variable is how your installer charges for the job. Labour charges differ wildly between companies. Some charge flat rates while others bill by the hour, which is why getting itemised quotes is so important.
You might see two quotes for the same job that are $100 apart, just because one installer charges differently.

Single panel replacement costs $250-$1,000, but finding a perfect match for doors over 10 years old? That’s often the tricky part. Manufacturers frequently update product lines, so your exact colour or style might no longer exist.
Multiple damaged panels make this worse. Costs climb sharply, sometimes reaching 60-70% of the price of a new sectional door. Once three or more panels need replacement, it usually makes more sense to replace the whole door rather than patching together an older one.
Opener issues usually start small. Basic repairs like sensor adjustments or remote programming cost $100-500 for simple fixes. These are the bread-and-butter callouts where the door works fine, but the electronics need recalibration or a new battery.
But when the motor or circuit board goes? That’s $250-450, which gets you close to the cost of a brand-new opener. You’re essentially rebuilding the opener’s core components at this price point.
The old housing stays, but everything inside gets swapped out. That’s why many installers recommend upgrading to a new unit instead, especially if your opener’s past the 10-year mark.
Upgrading also opens the door to modern features. Smart openers with app control cost $400-$700 installed, which gives you warranty coverage, enhanced safety features, and the ability to check your door’s status from anywhere. Compare that to patching an ageing opener that might fail again in six months, and the smart upgrade starts looking like the better bet.
The tipping point usually hits when your repair costs start approaching half the price of a new door. At that stage, replacing the whole door is often smarter than patching it together.
The warning signs usually show up as repeat repairs. You fix the springs, six months later the rollers go, and a few months after that the opener starts acting up. Each repair might seem manageable on its own, but the costs and effort add up quickly, especially when hidden damage surfaces later.
Take this, for example. A customer called about a bent track. We fixed it, only to have the motor burn out two weeks later because it had been overworking to compensate for the damaged track. One seemingly small repair had snowballed into multiple costly fixes. That’s not bad luck, that’s a door telling you it’s finished.

Doors past 15 years struggle with parts availability as manufacturers discontinue older model components.
What worked perfectly for a decade suddenly became impossible to fix because the springs, rollers, or panels you need simply aren’t made anymore. That often leaves you hunting discontinued parts or paying a premium for custom fabrication.
Beyond parts, safety is another concern with ageing doors. Older automatic garage door systems lack modern safety features like auto-reverse sensors required by current Australian standards. These sensors detect obstacles and reverse the door before it crushes anything underneath. Without them, you’re operating a 120kg door with no fail-safe, which is a serious risk if you’ve got kids or pets around.
Then there’s the security risk. Aged doors with fixed-code systems can be surprisingly easy to breach. In fact, security researcher Samy Kamkar demonstrated how these doors can be opened in seconds using a repurposed children’s toy. His proof-of-concept showed that older garage doors with basic security could be breached in under eight seconds by cycling through their limited code combinations.
Modern rolling-code systems eliminate this vulnerability, but if your door’s over 15 years old, chances are it’s still using this outdated technology that burglars can exploit.
It comes down to where the damage is and whether your door allows partial repairs, with sectional doors offering far more flexibility than tilt doors. Here’s how the two compare.
Sectional doors allow single-panel replacement, which makes minor damage far more affordable than a full replacement. If a car backs into one panel or hail dents a section, you can usually swap out just that damaged piece instead of replacing the entire door.
The cost works in your favour, too, as long as parts are still available. If your door model remains in production, a single panel typically costs $250-$1,000, which is far less than the $2,000-$4,000 price of a complete new door when only one section is damaged.
That advantage disappears once damage spreads across multiple sections. When three or more panels need replacing, labour and parts costs often climb close to the cost of a full replacement, which makes repairs harder to justify.

Tilt doors don’t offer the same flexibility. Because the door operates as a single solid piece, any significant dent, crack, or structural damage usually means replacing the entire door.
Frame damage makes this worse. On tilt doors, frames aren’t sold separately, so warping or cracks mean replacing the whole unit. The frame and door work together as an integrated system. When one fails, both go.
Even minor repairs tend to cost more with tilt doors because of how they’re built. Most fixes require removing the entire door, which adds time and labour. Compared to sectional doors, where individual panels can be swapped in place, tilt door repairs usually come with higher labour costs.
Three spring replacements over two years can cost more than a new door with a three-year warranty. Here’s how the numbers play out in common scenarios.
| Scenario | Repair Costs | New Door Cost | Better Choice |
| Basic Fixes Spring replacement, roller repair, track adjustment | $650 Springs: $300, Rollers: $200, Track: $150 | $2,500-$3,500 Mid-range sectional doo | Repair wins |
| Multiple Issues Over 18 Months Springs (Year 1), opener motor (Month 8), panel replacement (Month 14) | $1,500 total Springs: $300, Motor: $400, Panel: $800 | $2,500-$3,500 New door with a 3-year warranty | Tipping point: warranty tips scales toward replacement |
| Major Damage Three panel replacements, new tracks, and labour | $3,100 total Panels: $2,400, Tracks: $400, Labour: $300 | $2,500-$3,500 New door | Replacement clearly wins |
This is where warranties start to tip the scales. A new garage door usually comes with three or more years of coverage on parts and labour, which means fewer nasty surprises after installation. Repairs rarely offer that safety net. You might get a short warranty on the replaced part, but once that window closes, you’re on your own. The next failure means another callout and another bill.
Replacement also brings practical upgrades that older doors struggle to match. You get modern safety features, better insulation, and smoother operation as standard. The result is a quieter, more reliable door that’s less frustrating to live with, especially if your garage is more than just a storage space.

You can get an honest quote by requesting detailed, itemised breakdowns from multiple installers and comparing their warranty terms. Most installers offer free quotes, but not all quotes are created equal.
The key is getting specifics upfront. Start by asking for a complete breakdown of parts, labour, and any additional fees before committing to anything. Vague quotes that just show a total price make it impossible to spot overcharges or hidden fees.
For example, one installer might quote $1,200 for a spring replacement with no breakdown, while another itemises springs ($180), labour ($250), rollers ($150), and callout fees ($70) for a total of $650. That transparency shows where your money is going.
Warranty coverage is just as important as the price. Ask about warranty terms on both repairs and new installations so you can compare long-term protection, not just upfront costs. A cheaper repair with a 30-day warranty might cost you more in the long run than a slightly pricier option with 12 months of coverage.
Pro Tip: Get quotes from 2-3 installers to spot inflated pricing or unnecessary upsells. If one quotes $800 for opener repairs and another quotes $350, that gap tells you something. Either one is padding the price or the other is cutting corners.
You’ve got the breakdown, now it’s decision time. If your door’s past 15 years, repair costs are stacking up, or you’re dealing with major damage, replacement usually makes more sense. If it’s a single broken part on a newer door, repairs will get you back on track without breaking the bank.
Not sure which direction to take? That’s where we come in. At Control Room, we’ve spent over a decade installing and repairing panel lift garage doors across Brisbane suburbs like Wynnum, Ipswich, North Lakes, and Chermside. We’ll give you an honest assessment of what your door needs without pushing you toward the most expensive option.
Get in touch for a free quote. We’ll walk you through your options and make sure you’re getting the best value for your situation.